This is a question to Billy or anyone thats installed this on a first then.

The bar that is on my car is pretty much rubbing on the frame on the one side, the other side only has about 1/16" of a gap and between it and the frame. Is this how the bar was designed or was it suppose to have more clearance in there?

Also as far as adjusting the height of the bar, the bar is currently at pretty much its lowest setting, reason being the higher you go up the more it hits the metal tab that hold the brake lines in on the back side of the shock assembly. Am I suppose to just bend it or is something wrong in the installation?

Sam

The frame has a flat area that comes down. It is actually the pinch weld where the material end weld together. This normally sticks down more than the frame rail itself. It is normal to need to slightly grind a half circle a bit to clear the bar. Happens with the RB bars as well. Since the tube diameters are getting bigger than stock.

Is that what you meant?

On the end links. They can be short or long. Long will involve shortening or removing the brake line tabs. The function of the end links does not car if they are long or short. The idea is the thread one end out enough to give you a bit of adjustment on the other end. To adjust make sure the car is sitting on level ground and the coil overs (If your have them) are adjusted where you want them. Leave one side of the sway bar connected by the end links remove the bolt for the top rod end to the end of the sway bar on the other side. Twist the rod end until the bolt will freely screw into the sway bar. This means there is not pre-load on the bar.

Let me know if this helps.

Thanks Billy,

Here's a picture to show you where its rubbing. Black is the sway bar looking at it from the top, the red line represent the body, the area that is circled thats where it rubs. If the one long bar in the center section was mayb 1/4" long it would of been better and just made your angles a little smaller.

Another thing that I found a little inconvenient is taking out those hex socket cap bolts that you use. I have a set of metric socket one but most of the kits that i've seen don't include a 9mm just jumps from 8-10, and the only thing that i could find was a 3/8" hex key that got twisted and bent pretty bad before trying to those things out. Even asking people at the track for one, nobody had another one that would work. They would have the mini 3/8" on a 1/4" drive socket and broke 2 wrenches and 1 reducer trying to take them out at the track to adjust. If you could replace them with a regular hex head bolt 17mm or something like that it would make life a little easier . Would that be alright if I bought regular bolts and placed them instead of the ones in there?

I hope that i'm not sounding like a jerk, just giving honest feedback to make a good product become great .

Sam

Sam,

Thanks for the update. Yes, we made the bar a skinny as possible so it does not take a way from the tire clearance. You may want to get a couple of split collars and use them to set the location exactly where you want it by centering the bar and then tightening them up against the bushings.

The end link bots are 1/2"-20 threads. You should use a 3/8" hex key.
You should make sure to put a bit of anti-seize on the bolts before you put them in.
Also, they should not be tight. If they are tight to turn that means you have "pre-load" in your sway bar. The reason we have adjustable links is to get rid of the pre-load.

Next time you take them loose:
1) Make sure the car is sitting on a perfectly flat surface.
2) Make sure the coil overs are set where you want them
3) Remove the bolt on one side of the bar.
4) Twist the rod ends in or out until the bolt will thread in by hand. If it will not clean the threads and use anti-seize

Now you have zero pre-load in the sway bar. If you change any 4 of the coil overs or are sitting on a non-flat surface the bolts will be tight.

Any time you want to change the coil over heights on the car you must remove one bolt from the sway bar. When you are donw adjusting the coil overs you then reset the end link as mentioned above.

Changing to a hex bolt may bind during suspension movement. The head is larger in diameter and may contact the rod end body. This can cause broken bolts.

-billy

Hi Billy,

Thanks again for the explanations. Last i went out on the track, i think that I have found the sweet spot for my sway bar. Car had a very neutral feel to it. By that i mean it doesn't try to oversteer on me when i don't want it too, nor actually understeer like i had in a couple of the corners. I can make it oversteer on the tight hair pin at will without any real drama so the product is doing its job properly.