I just got the rack and pinion kit as well as the rest of my order and am planning to lower the car considerably once I get new wheels and tires (not quite as low as Kentetsu though). I was just wondering if you could explain how to use the adjustment holes on the crossmemeber and RLCA mounts to account for the lowered car. I think moving the control arms to the top holes is the right way but would like clarification before I do that.

Thanks
Chris

Chris,

Yes, the lowest hole (the one we shipped the bolts inserted into) is the stock location. The next one up would also add a bit a negative camber along with roll center adjustment. The upper most hole it even more roll center adjustment. The inner pivots would be similar to running a 1/2" and 1" roll center block.

Once you have installed and setup the caster/camber/toe settings you should drive it a bit to get a feel for it. Then if you like you can begin to mess with anti-dive and caster gain by mix-matching the holes used to mount the stock control arm and our new rear control arm.

-billy

Rather than clutter the joint up with another slightly related thread, I'll post my new question here. After installing the new rear lower control arms, my stock front lower control arms are now twisted laterally to the rear. This has also forced the rear arm to twist as well. My concern is that this twisting will put stress on the bolt and possibly shear it if enough force is put into it. I definitely put the labeled drivers side rear arm on the drivers side, is there any way it was mislabeled? The only other reason I can attribute this to is that while the pivot points of both arms are in the same location, the rear arm being mounted to the top of the front arm is pulling it backwards, while also changing it's rotational arc in comparison to the front arm. The only cure I can think of for this is to grind out a hole in the side of front arm to mount the rear arm to the underside of it. I'd rather not have to do this, although at the same time, pulling the rear lower control arms and swapping them gives me the chills too. Any input at all would be greatly appreciated, I've literally been losing sleep over this one, in fact I got out of bed to ask.

Thanks
Chris

Chris,

There is a slight difference between the mounting of the two arms, you are correct. It is in fact due to the mounting of the clevis pickup to the top of the front lower control arm.

There are absolutely no issues with this. The only thing I would ask you to check is that the arms were not mis-labeled. The new rear arm should be mounted into the pivot point on the rear arm pickup brackets. it should have a 5 degree upwards angle as it heads forward to meet the stock front control arm. You should dis-connect the clevis from the 3/8" bracket in order to make sure. If it angles down, the stock lower control arm would in fact be twisted in order to install it.

Let me know what you find out.

-billy

And get back to bed, you'll need all the sleep you can get before race day. And put some clothes on too, you actually sleep like that?

That's what the beer is for, I'll sleep just fine, if I don't get lost in the basement again. And never you mind what I wear when I sleep.